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Newsletter No. 25
Messidor CCXIII

• Gorky Plage, Glastonbury, Greece and the gerstenmalz of Germany

With traditional showbusiness high spirits, the latest multinational BSP touring programme concludes in the dockside bars of Hamburg. The moon has risen and Right Said Fred track You're My Mate is playing on the jukebox at The Kapitan's Kabin. BSP band members and stage crew chomp noisily on monkey nuts - eaten in the proper manner, shell and all. We can tell you for a fact, it is every bit as heady as the times when George Formby would tour the African desert in an old Humber van, kipping inside while his pianist and glamour girl bedded down under a van-side canvas lean-to. Notwithstanding, just how did we get here?

The particular evening has been driven to the heights by beer, haunting anecdote and raw in-concert performance. A short while earlier, BSP concluded their set at the Hamburg Dock venue. Not only did this feature an uncommon rendition of the track No Red Indian, but it was one of the finest BSP shows ever. For two nights only - Berlin and Hamburg - BSP have been back on the road with their old friends The Killers. Golden years, golden years. How this Killers band have grown. How they have flourished and filled out since the days they supported BSP at Lincoln Bivouac and Cardiff Club Ifor Bach. Now the tables are truly turned, with BSP honoured to support at these two German shows. These days the Killers tour juggernaut features walk-in wardrobes and a particularly fine and gentlemanly concert crew. But we are pleased to relay that this band have lost none of their odd combination of quiet courtesy and inspiring joie de vivre.

After the Hamburg show, fiercely bearded drummer Ronnie grins like his face done gonna break. Singer Brandon smiles and shows off his stage wear - a nice tight red mini-mac, seemingly co-designed by Mary Quant and Inspector Clouseau. However, bassist and Who fan Mark tops even that with a supernatural little tale relating to Who bassist John Entwistle. It seems that the night Mr Entwistle died was also Markâs birthday. Not only that, but where exactly did Entwistle peg out? Las Vegas, hometown to The Killers. If this is not proof of rock-legend bass-player spiritual transference then we donât know what is. Monkey nuts, Mary Quant and the Mark-Ent mind-meld, it rarely comes more compelling than this. But let us now backtrack, back to before this night.

Recent British Sea Power overseas touring began on 10 June with the first ever BSP trip to Russia. The majority of the BSP party flew from Heathrow. However, notoriously seasick BSP guitarist Noble chose another route - from Halifax, Nova Scotia, all the way by ice-bound convoy to Archangel. From this northerly Russian port, it was but a short journey by road, rail and horse-drawn troika to the BSP concert in Gorky Park.

Playing in the open air next to the Moscow river and beside a big wheel just like in the screen adaptation of The Third Man, BSP were clearly gratified to be rocking in this vast, astonishing land. Staged by Time Out Moscow, the show was a fine one, punctuated for the first time in BSP history by fireworks and pyrotechnics. To warm up after his icy cruise, Noble even toasted his foot in the incendiary outpouring of a Roman candle. What a silly lad. Better still, one young lady dashed onstage to present Yan with a substantial floral bouquet.

By the time BSP reach the closing Rock In A, all sexes, both male and female, are allied in joyous abandon. Immediately after the set, a bearded man comes up to tell us that he had only previously seen one band from west of Kiev. It was The Scorpions and he tells us that BSP were even better. Firm praise.

After the show there is only time for a quick bar-room debate on General Lebed and whether imperious Russian gymnast Svetlana Khorkina was right to pose nude for Playboy. Moscow, what a great place and what wonderful, friendly people. For instance when we got back to hotel, there were around 20 young women waiting to beckon us over with big smiles and wiggles of the hip. Where else would you ever get people hanging around in a hotel lobby at 3am just ready to chat and laugh with strangers? Still, that's Russia for you.

In St Petersburg, the band are pleased to be booked into a Swedish-designed hotel which the Rough Guide To St Petersburg bills thus: Mainly used by Finns on booze cruises, but also for sport and ballroom dancing competitions.

Having quickly boozed with cruising Finns and done a quick dance with determined heptathlete Denise Lewis, BSP leave for the show. It turns out the concert is not in St Petersburg itself, but out by the sea some 50 kilometres north-west along the coast. On arrival, BSP can hardly believe their good fortune. Regulars to the BSP newsletter service will know how we are always banging on about the glories of the Karelian Isthmus and the inspirational drift of mists across The Gulf Of Finland. Of course, not one of us had ever been there - until tonight.

There is no mist, the sun is shining. But here we are, looking out over the glorious, early-evening light-aircraft greys of The Gulf Of Finland. Tonight at least, the mood is as much Mediterranean as solemnly neo-Nordic, but no one is complaining. We are here and about to witness possibly the strangest BSP show yet. Let us set the scene.

The venue tonight is The Jet Set Plage and, this time, the event is staged by Time Out St Petersburg. The Jet Set Plage is situated in the dispersed settlement of Komapobo. The name translates as Mosquito and you do not wonder why for long. The insects are everywhere, biting down on any exposed skin. It matters little - the evening is splendid and the venue most pleasantly atypical. The Jet Set Plage is a big, open-air beachside bar. There is wooden decking and a big circular swimming pool in the middle of the dancefloor. Indeed, if you were dropped in blindfolded you would think you were in Ibiza before the north of the Eurasian landmass. Enhancing the Ibizan air, the DJ plays pumping-in-your-face happy house like DJ Sun Spangle manning the decks at Cafe Del Mar. A man built like a compacted Action Man robotically swings his buttocks while continually talking into a mobile phone.

As the sensual disco throb abates, BSP take their stations. Heads garlanded with leaves, they launch into The Scottish Wildlife Experience. Within 30 seconds the 500-strong crown divides approximately into two. One half are smiling with a hint of disbelief that suggests this may be one of the strangest things they have ever seen. The other half are grimacing with a hint of disbelief that says this may be one of the most unwelcome things they've ever seen.

By the time BSP head through Remember Me into Larsen B, half the crowd are baying and throwing their arms into the air. The other half cower and groan by the bar at the back. Surveying events, Yan and Hamilton smile widely before repeatedly voicing the tour catchphrase: I... LIKE...YOU. This expression is delivered midway between Terry Thomas and Boris Yeltsin and now the BSP boys begin to apply it to a particular quarter. Insistently, Yan beckons two girls and a boy on stage. This leggy, trio have been previously employed weaving through the crowd and smiling imperturbably while waving big Time Out flags. Now they maintain this activity, but instantly, effortlessly become part of the BSP live show.

As BSP rev into Lately, Noble begins to throw fruit into the crowd. Not the soft strawberry or tomato. Rather the solid lime or apple. They connect with a somewhat disturbing impact. As Lately reaches its climax, Yan jumps from the stage, does the 10-yard dash and hops into the swimming pool. A pretty girl leans over to soundman Joe in the mixing booth. "When... when will they finish?" she asks, a peculiar mixture of pain and apology etched across her brow.

Wet or nay, Scott is right back on stage for the start of Rock In A. As BSP reach the ultimate conclusion, Noble grabs a roll of gaffer tape and starts winding round our trio of leggy Russian flag-wavers, binding them tight into a flag-waving cluster. With the sun setting over the sea, the last note rings out. As the house music pumps out one more, the flag girls are left disentangling a knot of tape from their lovely tresses. They don't stop smiling for a second.

Back from the former USSR, BSP play a May Ball staged in June at Clare College, Cambridge. The men of BSP all learned to read, but none attended the honeyed heights of the British educational triangle. But the band enjoy their day in the sun - playing a concert on the longest day of the year as the punts glide by on the Cam. Peter Ackroyd, David Attenborough, Siegfried Sassoon and Richard Stilgoe all attended Clare and BSP are honoured to join them, if only for one night.

Other entertainments at the ball include a wide selection of soul and Motown from SpunkyFunk, a giant Scaletrix set and Girls Go Bang! who are here direct from supporting the Gucci Soundsystem. BSP play in the Fellows Garden, alongside a fairground, Circular Champagne Bar, Doughnuts and Chocolate Fondue. As the BSP set ends, one all are happy in the knowledge that Breakfast Bags will be available at 5am.

From Cambridge it is onward to Glastonbury. Yes, it rains a bit - indeed all BSP tents are flooded - but hardly enough to stop one enjoying the falafels and Johhny from Razorlight taking his shirt off. BSP enjoy a nice few pints of Woodforde Wherry, champion ale from Norfolk, then get down to business.

The Brakes play a fine set in the Guardian Guide Tent and then BSP make ready for their headline spot at the Leftfield Tent. This marquee is a real hotspot for socialist lobbying and sweat-free T-shirts. BSP are delighted to line up alongside Teasing Lulu, Babyshambles and the Unite Against Fascism Debate with Billy Bragg and Jerry Dammers. BSP come on stage after Sonic Audio, a fearsome Leicestershire gang who bring on Shaun Ryder to guest on a version of Jumping Jack Flash. Shaun - aka X - grunts like a real un and occasionally bellows JOOMPIN JACK FLAHHHR YUH! Truly a legend of dark indie-dance taking things right back to the primordial funk soup. We mean, did even Can ever get this pagan?

BSP walk on to a big swelling crowd, quite a few of whom are carrying partisan clumps of ivy or an oak bough or two. Ascending from the mire, BSP turn in a truly electrifying set. If you were there you saw it. After the band walk off, a spontaneous cry of SEA POWER! rings out for minutes. Even X gives his assent. Wandering over in the backstage compound, he addresses BSP: "Nice one! Not bad for a bunch of students. Pretty good trees too." With that he is away, looking for Tango and Kit-Kat.

Glastonbury is followed directly by a flight to Greece for the Rockwave festival. The band fly at 39,000 feet over Brindisi and hope they might be able to invoke the spirit of Mimi Parent and the Exposition interRnatiOnale du Surrealism (making EROS, obviously). The papers have news of how some fool has dug up rare Lady's Slipper orchids at Silverdale golfcourse. The tour manager is thinking back to the time when Madonna tried to make him the main beneficiary of her last will and testament and the time when Kate Bush asked if she could buy him a bicycle. These are the issues that must be addressed in Greece.

Rockwave takes place in a rustic locale outside Athens. The stage faces a big, pine-covered mountain and there is cold Vergina beer for all players. There are also lizards, cicadas and goldfinches. The spinach pies and vegan triangles are quite delicious and it is quite possibly the best organised festival that BSP have ever played.

BSP take the stage around 6pm and get the sun-kissed girls and boys in a tizz. Job done, they slump back in the heat, supping frozen margaritas and getting ready for the next two bands - only the freakin Secret Machines and goddamned Sonic Youth, mate. Secret Machines are fine, but Sonic Youth are excellent. They've been doing this for years if not centuries now, but tonight they have exuberance and chutzpah to shame the teenager. Well done Sonic Youth, well done Rockwave.

After Greece, it on to Germany and back where we started. In Hamburg, Berlin and Dortmund there are almost too many attractions to enumerate. On arrival in Hamburg, Noble befriends Mark Owen of Take That and gets all the band on the guestlist for his show at the Logo club. Boy is it hot in there. BSP are also pleased to spot two new flavours in the Ritter Sport range of squared chocolate bars - Ritter Blutorange and Ritter Heidelbeere. Look out for them on your own high street soon.

The band also find time to pop in for the Seestucke exhibition at Hamburg Kunsthalle. This sombre and evocative array of seascapes truly thrilled the hungover group mind. Imagine how they gawped at the sheer expanse of Copenhagen Roadstead by Anton Melbye, the amazing detail of Abend Am Meer by Carl Gustav Carus. Best of all, there was Eismeer by Caspar David Friedrich. Hey, here was a guy doing pretty much what BSP were trying to do with their song Oh Larsen B, but beating them to to punch a cool 181 years! We are telling you, even The Killers could not do that. And them boys are good.

Thank you for your time. Next stop Italy and the Arezzo Wave and Spaziale goosefairs. News will follow.

Yours,
Old Sarge

NEWSBLAST!

British Sea Power feature on the Isle Of Wight 2004 DVD, filmed live on stage at the Isle Of Wight Festival. The DVD features one track from BSP - Stretch And Flex With Ursine Ultra (aka Rock In A). That is right, BSP doing it with famous stage bear Ursine Ultra at one of the creatureâs last appearances before being made involuntarily redundant. Several renowned BSP admirers can spotted in the front row and the BSP performance is real bright and breezy. Even so, think carefully before buying - notwithstanding guaranteed in-focus additional footage of Groove Armada, Steve Harley and Jet. Out now. Certificate: exempt from classification.

BOOKBLAST!

Back in the good old days, BSP would occasionally recommend a book. Now back and bolder than ever they are recommending three at once.

a) The Shining Levels by John Wyatt. An old BSP favourite this one. Indeed, the seasoned BSP observer may know already how this book was an inspiration for the Open Season album and the track True Adventures in particular. A gentle autobiographical tale of kicking off the traces and going to live in a hut in the Lake District, it is sure to calm even the most devoted crackhead. Who could forget the bits where he cooks stew and makes friends with a deer? Currently our of print, but available via the megaweb.

b) Scapa Flow by Malcolm Brown and Patricia Meehan (Pan Grand Strategy Series). Believe it not, the Orcadian natural harbour of Scapa Flow has a life even beyond its inclusion in BSP classic Carrion. This oral history of Scapa Flow is a motivating read and tells you how to keep going even when it is cold: "Snow outside now, but the fellow you've chummed up with has a hip-flask of the best rum in the world and he's pleased for you to have a swig." Note: available from the booksellers of Waterloo at a cut-price £2.99.

c)The Amazing Adventures Of Kavalier & Clay by Michael Chabon (4th Estate). You may well know this one already - after all, it won the whole-hog Pulitzer Prize after its publication in 2000. A virtuoso WWII-era tale of two NYC-based cousins who create the Hitler-busting comic superhero The Escapist. It also masterfully depicts New York Gotham as young Josef Kavalier frets and fulminates over how he can save his Czech parents from real-life Nazi tyranny. Beautifully written, hugely moving stuff.